DAY ELEVEN: Connemara Excursion

Today we traveled through Ireland’s Connemara National Park to spend time at Kylemore Abbey. Once "another bloody castle," Kylemore is “steeped in history and is now the home to Ireland’s only community of Benedictine nuns.”

DAY TEN: Belleek Pottery, Sligo, Knock, Galway

Our tour guide Jaime allowed us to “lie in” this morning and we took up on her offer crawling out of bed at 7:15 am and, following breakfast, boarding the bus at 9:30!!! It was a treat!

Our first stop of the day was a tour of the world-famous Belleek Pottery to learn how this beautifully perfect, thin, iridescent porcelain is made.  Every one of 5000 individual pieces each week is, itself, incredibly made without a measure of any kind then fired first for 24 hours at 1200 degrees, then a second time for 10 hours at 1000 degrees.  

But as amazing is the making of this exquisite art, the story behind the business is even more impressive.  In 1857, a young man inherited his father’s estate-in-ruins and was concerned about the future of his tenants who traditionally were told to move on when they couldn’t pay rent because they were financially strapped due to crop failures, sickness or other circumstances.  A survey of his land found it had all the right “ingredients” to make pottery so he hired a few expert craftsmen from around the UK to teach his local workforce and Belleek Pottery was born, since then providing a livelihood for several generations as it has become known worldwide for its fine workmanship. 

DAY NINE: Giant’s Causeway and Derry / London Derry

After an overnight stay in Belfast, we began our 2^ndday in Ireland at Giant’s Causeway, “a geological wonder steeped in legend and folklore,” including 40,000 basalt stone columns formed by volcanic eruptions over 60 million years ago. We met the giant Finn McCool and heard his funny story, introducing us to distinction stone formations such as the Camel, Wishing Chair, Harp and Organ.  A great fun stop in our journey to see “so very observable a curiosity!” (Thomas Molyneux, 1694)

The afternoon found us touring Derry /Londonderry-unquestionably a city divided by the same uneasy peace which continues to plague Ireland from “sea to shining sea.”  A great tour guide – Ronan (half Chinese and half Irish) – introduced us to the “birthplace of Christianity” and shared his hope his three children would have the opportunity to grow up in a peaceful world. Following his hourlong presentation, we had the chance to tour medieval halls, the Guildhall and several other historical and compelling modern sites.  

Another lovely – and particularly thought-provoking – day.

DAY EIGHT: Ferry to the Emerald Isle, Belfast and the Titanic Experience

Crossing over from Scotland to Ireland, I am reminded of a little ditty our tour guide shared with us on the first day of our tour:

First, you have the Welsh who pray on their knees … and their neighbors.

Then you have the Scots who keep the Sabbath … and everything else they can get their hands on.

Then you have the Irish who don’t know what they want but they will fight you for it anyway.

Then there are the English, who are a self-made race which absolves God Almighty of a great deal of responsibility.

Of all our experiences to this point, this was one of my favorite days of our vacation.  We began with a 2-hour ferry ride across the Irish Sea from Scotland to Ireland.  The ferry holds 2100 passengers, more than 600 vehicles and a crew of about 350 so it felt more like a cruise ship, with a large gift shop, cafeteria, game room, play room for littles and decks on which passengers could walk about.  It was a fun and relaxing opportunity for all our Gate 1-ers to enjoy lunch and good conversation.

Once in Ireland, we were delivered to a Titanic Experience in Belfast, considered in 1912 to be "the largest and most important, properous commercial and manufacturing city in Ireland."  This $10,000,000 exhibit first opened its doors on March 31, 2012 (the 100-year anniversary of the launch of the legendary but ill-fated RMS Titanic) and has now been voted the world’s #1 tourist attraction.  Titanic Belfast is absolutely amazing.  We have toured Titanic displays in the past …. But NOTHING like this one! If you are ever in Ireland, don’t miss it!!!!  We were given 2 full hours to explore, but we barely scratched the surface of the displays. It was so incredible!

Then we did a bus tour of the city, ending at Belfast’s Peace Wall, erected to keep Ireland’s Catholics and Protestants apart during what they politely call “the troubles.” Things have now settled into an uneasy truce (thanks to skillful negotiations by US President Bill Clinton), but schools are still segregated so it wouldn’t take much to see a repeat of Ireland’s political uprising.  Our bus stopped at the wall, we were each given a marker and had an opportunity to leave a message before the wall is removed in 2023!  My message was a quote from President Thomas S. Monson:  "Your future is as bright as your faith."

DAY SEVEN: Glasgow City Tour

Glasgow – with a population of more than 1 million residents - considers itself Scotland’s “most sophisticated city."  Not sure on what their designation is based, but it is certainly hugely diverse.

Glasgow has a history dating back to 500-600 AD – and nearly everyone can recite the genealogy of kings, queens and other historical figures who’ve lived in or built the city – including an impressive collection of statues and monuments heralding their accomplishments.  The city is made up of rows and rows of amazingly well-maintained red sandstone buildings; and, immediately next door, across the street or around the corner, are dramatic modern government buildings and stylish restaurants, pubs and clubs filled with locals and tourists … with loud and lively music.  Glasgow is also world famous for its shipbuilding industry; and, I’m sure Larry knows … is the birthplace of the Queen Mary.

Our afternoon was spent exploring nearby Stirling Castle, one of the largest and most important in Scotland, including gardens, dungeons and the chambers of the King and Queen of the time, described by Richard Franck (1658) as "Stirling where stands a beautiful and imbellished (sic) castle, elevated on the precipice of an impregnable rock, and which commands the vallies (sic) ... "  T. Garnett (1798) said "it was the favourite (sic) residence of the Scottish monarchs and still exhibits very noble remains of royal magnificence."  In 1847, author Hans Christian Anderson visited "Stirling's mighty castle, situated  on a rock which appeared like a gigantic figure of stone, thrown out from the level plain, and crowns the town."

After a week in Scotland, we are still trying to figure out the plumbing, which varies from hotel to hotel.  Every shower head has been different and very complicated.  In addition, the water in every faucet - no matter where we are - is not just hot, its SCALDING! We’ve also noted every hotel room has a mirror but no electrical outlet nearby … or a plug-in but no mirror, which makes doing my hair difficult and makes me “peely wally.”

As we leave Scotland, our tour guide Jamie noted we are not to believe anything about Scotland as portrayed by Mel Gibson in his movie “Braveheart” which she claims doesn't have a single correct fact from beginning to end.  She does give “Outlander" a thumbs up for being "kind of accurate” and she’s hoping the new movie “The Outlaw King,” about the life and times of Robert the Bruce, will tell a correct story of her country's early days.

DAY SIX: Glencoe, Loch Lomond, Glasgow

On Day Six of our tour of Scotland we traveled south to what is described as “a magical region steeped in legend, folklore and history.”  We stopped at an impressive WWII monument against the backdrop of Ben Nevis, Scotland’s “mighty mountain.”   Along the way we passed the “al-u-min-iam” plant, heard the story of the 1691massacre in Glencoe of 200 members of the McDonald Clan; and, learned about the Jacobites, defined as followers of Scotland’s James VI (aka James I of England). 

We stopped for lunch at a non-descript roadside cafeteria where I took a chance on the sweet potato and coconut soup with a dessert of bread and butter pudding topped with custard sauce. The best meal I’ve had since we left the USA!  

At Loch Lomond, we boarded a small fishing vessel for a short trip along the “bonnie, bonnie banks” - immortalized in song – of the largest freshwater lake in the UK … with a year-round water temperature of 13-16 degrees … and a nudist colony nestled in the forest just above the water’s edge.

In the time we’ve been together, I’ve had several people question the reference to “Dixie” on Ed’s hat and my t-shirt which has given me a great opportunity to share our love for our hometown! Ours is a really great bunch of bus mates.  In the meantime, internet service is nothing, if not intermittent and unreliable, but the landscape makes up for it.  I am on the lookout for a Scot or Scottish flag (never Scotch … which we are reminded is a whiskey, not a nationality) to add to my foreign flag collection.  

DAY FIVE: Scotland’s Loch Ness, Isle of Skye, Museum of the Isles

Today, we drove nearly 200 miles into the stunning landscapes of the Scottish highlands.  After a few hours on the road, we arrived at the 23-mile long, dark, deep and murky Loch Ness, said to be one of the most storied sites in all of Scotland as the home of legendary Nessie, the Loch Ness monster. We didn't see her but it was still a fun - but very cold day.

Later, we arrived for a short stop at the Eilean Donan Castle, featured in the James Bond movie “The World is Not Enough,“ before crossing over a relatively new bridge connecting the mainland with the Isle of Syke.  Here we visited a 20,000 acre estate with a museum preserving Highland history, explored historic gardens – dated in part to the 1790’s - and visited the Armadale Castle ruins, dating back to the 19^thcentury.  

We are once again driving on the left side of the street the same way we did in Guyana (formerly a British country).  According to our guide, “you drive on the right side of the street … we drive on the correct side!”  If it hasn’t been mentioned before, we are traveling through the UK in a very large bus along narrow streets. At times it seems we are not more than 3 inches away from oncoming traffic.  Good drivers but scary, just the same.

The bagpipe player in Edinburgh – when he heard we are from Utah and noticed we weren’t imbibing – asked if we were Mormon, then told us his brother in Ireland is an LDS Bishop.  Not surprisingly because of the huge lifelong production and consumption of alcohol, the number of Church members in Scotland and Ireland is very low.  In fact, the mention of Scotland on the church website is not listed individually but is included with much of Great Britain … and Ireland, although mentioned separately, has only 3900 members.  

DAY FOUR: Scotland’s St. Andrew, Scone Palace and Whiskey Tasting

Our first side trip on today’s itinerary was a visit to the town of St. Andrews, better known as the birthplace of golf!  Needless to say, Ed was “over the moon” to be on what he considers hallowed ground … the closest place to heaven on earth for golfers.  As we were nearing St. Andrews, our adorable guide Jaime was giving us a running storyline of information.  When she stopped to take a breath, Ed jumped in with a question.  “When is my tee time?” to which she explained quite matter-of-factly, there would be two “tea times” today.  Her innocent response got delighted laughter from our bus mates.

Along our way, we crossed over the newest of three bridges at the Firth of Forth.  When the 3^rdbridge was nearing completion, a contest was held to determine an official name for the structure. The favorite submission – but not the winner - was the “Third Firth of Forth.”

We spent the early afternoon at Scone (pronounced Scoon) Palace, known as the crowning place for Scottish kings until King Edward I, who chose to be coronated at Westminster Abbey.  The palace is part tourist attraction and part private home of the 8^th(or 9^th) Earl and Duchess of Mansfield.  The 1^stEarl of Mansfield received this 32,000 acres as a gift for saving the life of one of the Scottish kings and it continues to belong to his descendants … and to which every reigning monarch has visited since.

Our last stop of the day (before our arrival at the Hilton Cuylumbridge) was at the Dalwinnie Distillery – one of 120 such businesses in Scotland.  We were guided through the operation by a very enthusiastic young man who could barely contain himself about the lucky circumstance of his employment as he talked about the number of his co-workers he considered “functioning alcoholics.”  Not him, of course!  At the end of the tour we were each given a “wee dram” of the house specialty.

On that note, we have concluded whiskey (translated from the Gaelic as “water of life”) is the Diet Coke of Scotland.  Whiskey – and wine – is served at all hours of the day and night, at every occasion and is on sale in every shop and market.  And, if you order Highland porridge (what we know as oatmeal) for breakfast, it comes with a pinch of salt and whiskey-to-taste!

Tonight, we stayed at the Hilton Hotel in the Cairngorms National Park, 1 of Scotland’s 15 national parks – all combined representing about 6% of Scotland’s land mass in the largest arctic landscape in the UK.

Day Three in Scotland

Warm up? It didn’t … not by a long shot!  In fact, taking into consideration a steady – though thankfully not drenching – rain, it felt even colder than yesterday despite the weatherman’s promise of a comfortable 52 degrees.

This morning we had a city tour of historic downtown Edinbura(not Edinburg or Edinboro).  Our bus route, including a delightful and very knowledgeable guide, took us past the Scottish Parliament, along the Royal Mile, Princes Street, and other interesting sights. Edinburgh is a city of great contrasts, including amazing numbers of buildings from the 13^th, 14^thand 15^thcenturies, still in use but filled today with shops, offices and pubs.  Unquestionably, Scotland has a booming tourism industry as evidenced by tour busses everywhere carrying tourists from everywhere.  

We spent much of the morning and early afternoon exploring Edinburgh Castle, including the Crown Room, Royal Palace, St. Margaret’s Chapel, all which, at one time, was inhabited by Mary, Queen of Scots.  The castle and its grounds have been beautifully preserved through the centuries so it was fun, and interesting to visit.

In the afternoon, we ventured out with two other couples. Around the corner from our hotel, we enjoyed a light lunch at a local cafe and found more fascinating photo ops. 

The evening of Day Three was spent at a traditional Scottish dinner and show.  Delightful, but the most fun was posing for a picture I’m calling “how many Utahns can you fit in a Scottish phone booth?”  We had to make those on the bus wait for a minute and a half, but what a great way to end a great day!

Day One (and Two) Getting to Scotland

Our trip to Scotland and Ireland began with a trip to Salt Lake City.  We didn’t have to be to the airport until 1 p.m. when Gary drove us from Ogden to catch our 3 p.m. flight.  We made our way to the D3 gate where we would wait for the plane to carry us to our first stop in Amsterdam and ran into Royce and Jill Jones also heading for Amsterdam.  Small world!

We left SLC in broad daylight, flew 8 ½ hours (much of it in the dark), then landed in Amsterdam - again in broad daylight - at about 9 am, followed by a 3-hour wait for a one-hour flight to Scotland … arriving 27 hours after Gary dropped us at the curb in SLC.

Once in Edinburgh (pronounced by the locals as Edinbura), our cab driver was a nice Scottish man with a very thick and hard-to-understand accent, though much more lyrical than the heavily guttural speech of the Dutch!  Of course, we can’t count Amsterdam among the places we’ve seen in our travels – because we didn’t get out of the airport – but Scotland promises to be delightful!  We can hardly wait to enjoy it after about 12 hours of sleep.